The Town of Egremont.....a Potted
History.
990 The king of Denmark had set hinself the task of conquering
all England. The Danes came to his part of the country and built
themselves a fort on the site which, at a later date, would become
Egremont Castle.
1092 The year when William the Conqueror's son marched north to
Carlisle bringing the Norman influence to the North West of England.
1095 Ranulph de Briquessart was given, by Rufus William II (1087
- 1100) the greater part of Cumberland and a large part of Westmorland.
1100 Ranulph de Briquessart, now known as Ranulph le Meschines,
was made Earl of Chester and his great estates were returned to
the crown.
1120 Henry I granted the Barony of Copeland to William le Meschines,
brother of the now Earl of Chester. This was all the lands lying
between the River Duddon in the south to the River Derwnt in the
north and from the Irish sea in the west to the interior mountains
in the east. William fixed his place of residence at Egremont
(a name most likely derived from the Norman French "Egremond").
The building of the castle appears to have commenced about this
time. The
first building was of the motte and bailey type of structure.
The sandstone castle being built as the need for stronger fortification
became necessary.
1125 The town of Egremont begins to grow around the castle, which
is said to have taken 150 years to to complete. The entrance tower
and courtyard are reckoned to have been completed by the year
1180 and the Great Hall was probably not completed until 1270.
1130 It was about this time that William le Meschines died and
his estates
were taken over by his son Ranulph.
1135 Ranulph le Meschines died without male issue and his Barony
was governed on behalf of his sister by William Fitzduncan, the
nephew of King David I, who had by this time occupied the whole
of Cumberland claiming it for the Scots.
1140 William Fitzduncan married Alice, daughter of Cicely,
only child remaining of William le Meschines and she had married
Robert de Romilly, Lord of Skipton.
1145 It was about this time that Alice gave birth to a male child
who,
through his tragic and untimely death became celebrated in tradition
as "The Boy of Egremont".
1150 William Fitzduncan held great power as a result of his marriage
and inheritance "he held a status within the kingdom that
was inferior to no other!".
1157 It was whilst on holiday at the home of his Aunt Cecily at
Bolton in Craven, now Yorkshire, that the son of William and Alice
Fitzduncan met his untimely and tragic death in The Strid where
the River Wharfe
flows through a narrow defile.
1160 William Fitzduncan dies and as a result of his death, and
that of his son, the large estates are divided between his three
daughters, namely Cecily who married The Earl of Albermarle, Annabel
married Reginal de Lucy and Alice, who married twice but died
later, childless.
1165 Alice's estates were divide and part of them came to Richard
de Lucy, son of Annabel. He married Ada, co-heiress of Hugh de
Morville Lord of the Barony of Burgh. They had two daughters also
named Annabel and Alice who, as a result of their fathers death,
became wards of Thomas de Multon.
1175 Annabel de Morville married Lambert de Multon.Alice de Morville
married Alan de Multon.
1177 Lambert de Multon and Annabel inherited the Barony of Copeland
so Egremont Castle again had a Lord in residence. It was he who
granted, by Royal Charter from Henry III, Egremont's borough charter
and the right to hold a weekly matket and an annual fair. This
fair was to become known as "Crab Fair" and is held
annually on the Saturday nearest the 19th September.
1200 Richard de Lucy established his claim to the Lordship
of Copeland and had to sue his relatives to obtain his inheritance.
1205 It was at this time that one of Egremonts legends came into
being.The story of Grunwilda, wife of Richard de Lucy who, on
a hunting foray, was slain by a wolf. The tale is told in the
poem "The Woeful Chase".
1212 Richard de Lucy dies leaving no male heir. Superstition has
it that no male child should ever survive to inherit Egremont
Castle because of the perfidious conduct of William le Meschines
to one Robert Curthose by desertion and for the atrocities committed
on helpless women and children by William Fitzduncan. It was he
that held the unsavoury title the "Butcher of Craven".
1295 Egremont was considered important enough to be able to be
represented in Parliament with two members, but this proved to
be too expensive for the town. Subsequently the Burgesses petitioned
the Crown "that they may be spared this expense" and
so it was granted.
1300 The town as envisaged by Richard de Lucy is much as we see
it today and the land that he set aside for agriculture at Briscoe
and Ullcoats, even after over 700 years still remains under agricultural
usage.The 1300's were times of turmoil and trouble as a result
of the frequent incursions made by the Scots into what they had
always claimed as
"debatable lands".
1315 The district of Copeland is again ravaged and Egremont is
devestated by the marauding Scots. King David I of Scotland used
Egremont Castle during this period as his headquarters when ranging
down the Cumberland coast as far as Furness.
1322 Robert Bruce pillaged and plundered the town on his great
raid which lasted for three weeks and resulted in an enormous
loss of life.
1330 An uneasy peace followed these blood thirsty raids for the
next few decades.1386 It is at this time that Maud, sister and
co-heiress of Anthony, the fourth Lord Lucy, married Henry Percy
the Earl of Northumberland on
condition that he should quarter his arms with hers.The Egremont
estate passed by marriage to the Seymours of Somerset.
1400 The castle at Egremont is left empty for long periods
during these years and consequently fell into a state of neglect
and disrepair. The powers which had held the area for so many
years were no longer apparent.The bloodiest period of the towns
history was drawing to a close and the Scots were making less
and less raids down the Cumberland plains. The
chaos and uncertainties of the previous century were receding.
1463 King Edward IV had made a truce with the Scots and the Duke
of Gloucester, who was later crowned King Richard III. The "debatable
lands" though, were still a burning issue. 1500 The Castle
by now was of no iportance and was falling into decay. It is said
that Oliver Cromwell was responsible for the destruction of the
castle at the same time as his followers destroyed Calder Abbey
and the Priory at St Bees but there is no evidence of this. Inded,
Cromwell did
not come into his prime until some 140 years later!
1565 The building of a stone "brygge" mentioned in a
property deal at this date is most likely the bridge known as
"Old Bridge".
1578 The town was now smaller than it had been in the 1300's due
to the frequent raiding by the Scots. The number of "burgess"
properties had fallen from 138 in 1295 to 101 in 1565.
1600 The town is at a standstill, the castle is but a ruin of
its former glory and little, if any, building is taking place.
1667 New stone buildings, apparently built with stone from the
now derelict castle, are being built on Main Street. The Ponsonby
family of Haile Hall seems to have been responsible for some of
these. The town is once again on the move.
1683 One Edward Benn was granted a plot of land on which to build
a barn,on condition that "he rebuilt the stone brygge of
1565 and he should bind himself and his heirs forever to repair
and maintain this brygge".
1710 Isaac Pearson, a Tanner, needed a plot of land on which to
build a tannery. The Borough Court granted him a plot, on the
riverside near the place known as Black Bridge, on condition that
he did rebuild and maintain the bridge at the bottom of Bookwell
Hill over Skitter Beck.
1748 Another bridge was built close to Briscoe Mill by John Pearson,
a Hatter, at his own expense. This amounted to £28-15s-0d.
1749 A "Turn Pike Trust" was inaugerated and roads improved.
The town began to service the port of Whitehaven,
the then third largest port in England. A mail coach passed through
the town, on its way from Ulverston to Whitehaven, three times
a week.1800 The town was thriving, Tanneries, Corn Mills, Sailcloth
Mills, Flint Mills and Flax Mills had all been built along the
River Ehen from which they obtained their motive power.1822 A
new double arched sandstone bridge was opened a few yards upstream
from the bridge of 1565 and 1683 and the Old Bridge demolished.1824
The bridge near Briscoe Mill was widened to allow passage of wheeled
vehicles.1830 Iron ore mining began in earnest around this time.
1850 The sound of iron caulkered clogs was a welcome sound
to the people of Egremont. It was boom time for the mines. The
town was lit by gas, a small company had been formed of local
business men and a gasworks built at Beck Green. The railway had
come with a line from Whitehaven via Moor Row.1860 The first Fire
Engine, horse drawn, had been bought and delivered to Egremont
Railway Station.1869 The railway line was extended via Beckermet
to Sellafield to join up
with the coast line from Furness to Whitehaven.1879 The first
piped water supply from a 6,000 gallon reservoir at Howbank
was laid to a standpipe in Main Street. Wyndham and Gillfoot mines
began to lift ore.
1880 A new school opened at Bookwell, the population had increased
from 1,000 in 1800 to 6,000 in 1880.
1881 The Parish Church was rebuilt. There has been a church on
this site since 1130.
1882 The iron ore trade suffered a depression, the first of many
during the next 60 years.
1885 The telephone came to town.
1888 The Main Street is paved, the Town Hall is built, a water
supply comes to town from Cogra Moss and trees are planted all
down Main Street.1901 The Church tower is extended and a peal
of bells installed, much to the delight of a group of local campanologists.1909
The last Leet Court is held in the castle, a long tradition is
no more. Beckermet Mining Company open their new mine at a depth
of 600 fathoms.
1914 The First World War begins and Egremont gets its first casualties.
Before the end of the war, 120 local men will have laid down their
lives.1915 A new housing project is built at Briscoe Mount to
the east of the town,
1918 The Great War ends and the soldiers who have survived
begin to return home to "a land fit for heroes to live in".
However, they found unemployment was rife in the area even though
the Beckermet Mining Company had opened their second new mine.
1920 Another new housing estate, Castle Croft, was being built
with semi-detached 3 and 4 bedroom houses with piped water, gas
lighting and water sewage, all with rentals from 6/3d per week.1930's
A depressing time with high unemployment over long periods. A
point was reached where 9 out of every 10 men were on the dole.
1939 This year saw the beginning of another conflict in Europe,
with Germay the aggressor again.Those who had been born during
the First World War were now old enough to be called up and over
30 men of Egremont and District were to lay down their lives.1940
As a result of the War the iron ore mines are in full production
again.
Smithfield housing estate is started.1945 Armistice is signed,
another war is over. Passenger service ceases on
the line from Whitehaven to Sellafield via Egremont. Electric
lighting is installed on Main Street.1950 Gulley Flatts housing
estate is built. Rowntrees open their chocolate crumb factory
at East Road. A new industrial scene begins to grow, the
Royal Ordnance factory at Sellafield is taken over by the Atomic
Energy Authority.1964 Comprehensive Schooling comes to Wyndham,
the first in the British Isles.
1968 Florence Iron Ore Mine closes. The town has lost some of
its oldest
buildings with the clearance of houses in South St, hurch St,
Croft Terrace, Rafferty St, Drummond St and North Road.
1970's This period sees a great influx of construction workers
needing accommodation, the nuclear industry is expanding.
1980's Windscale Mine closes, the iron ore mining industry is
finished, the days of the Red Men are over.Only part of the new
Florence Mine is to remain, producing a small quantity of high
grade iron ore for special purposes. The mine is
destined to become a curiosity to visitors of the town.The Atomic
Energy Authority at the now renamed Sellafield open a large
Visitors Centre.Egremont becomes a dormitory town for the influx
of contractors building the huge THORP complex at Sellafield.A
town once well known to Royalty is now well known to the World
as it stands on the doorstep of one of the most controversial
industries ever known.1990 A new era envisaged for the town, a
bypass is to be built, the town
may once again become a quiet little Market Town. Are a thousand
years
of time to come full circle?
Egremont Castle.
The mellow ruins of Egremont Castle stand high above the town
on a natural hill that is steeply scarped and improved by art.
As Norman Nicholson says "lifted above the town like the
Ark in the wilderness".The Norman control of Cumbria did
not come until some time after the famous year 1066. It was not
until 1092 that William Rufus established Ranulf de
Mescines as Earl of Carlisle and not until after 1120 that HenryI
created a number of baronies, of which Copeland was one, and installed
William de Meschines, Ranulf's younger brother, there.The Normans
were great church builders and William de Meschines in 1125 endowed
St Bees Priory. He was succeeded by his son, Ranulf, in 1134.
Ranulf did not live long but before he died he endowed Calder
Abbey.The barony went to his sister, Cecily, who had married Robert
de Romilly,
Lord of Skipton in Craven. Their only child, Alice, carried the
Barony of Egremont and Lordship of Skipton to her husband, William
Fitzduncan, son of Duncan, Earl of Murray and nephew of David,
King of Scotland.
Fitzduncan died in 1151 leaving three daughters and a son,
William de Romilly, "the boy of Egremont" so called
either because he was born there or because Egremont was the most
extensive English property to which he was heir. It stretched
from the Derwent to the Duddon.Some nine years later, young de
Romilly was drowned when his horse failed to jump the river Wharfe
at a dangerous place called the Strid. His death was a tragedy
because of the high hopes centred on him. The ORKNEYING SAGA calls
him "William the Noble, whom all the Scots wished to take
for their King".Egremont passed to his sister Annabels husband,
Richard de Lucy, who granted a charter of privileges to the burgesses
of the town. Richard de Lucy died
young and the guardianship of his two daughters was purchased
by Thomas de Multon of Gilsland, who promptly married them off
to his two sons and then married the widow himself. The Multons,
who continued in possession until
1335, built the Great Hall of the castle. On the death of the
last de Multon it passed to Baron Fitzwalter and later to the
Percy's, Earls of Northumberland, who let the castle fall into
decay. By 1578 it was completely in ruins except for the courthouse.The
early Lords of Egremont possessed the powers of "pit and
gallows" and had a short way with vexatious villeins and
surly serfs. On the top of Clints, on the road from Egremont to
Bigrigg, is a field called Gibbet Holme, and according to Jeffersons
history of Allerdale-above-Derwent, "several skeletons have
been found at various times".Egremont was too far south of
the Border to be affected by the usual Reiver activity, but in
1315, Robert the Bruce and Lord James Douglas drove deep into
Cumberland, did much mischief at Egremont and spoiled the Priory
at St Bees. It was on this raid or the subsequent one in 1322
that Calder Abbey suffered severe damage.
Norman Nicholson once wrote "the stone of the castle is dark and sullen. Much blood has soaked into it" and in his FIVE RIVERS (Faber 1944) has a poem entitled "Egremont" in which he declares:
Still the moated dungeons hide
Legends of poverty and pride
And murdered skulls are stuffed with lore
Of pillage, plunder, famine, fear
And dirk has carved upon the bone
'Blood will not show on the red stone'
Legends there are about Egremont. Parson and White in their
history and gazetteer of Cumberland (1829) remind us that there
is a traditional story of a lady of the Lucy family, on a n evening
walk near the castle, being devoured by a wolf. Hence a place
nearby has a cairn of stones and the name Woeful Bank.It is around
the Lucies that legend lies thickest. About 1204, Richard was
made Forester of Cumberland. The badge of the forester was a bugle
horn and from this sprang the story of the Horn of Egremont.The
legend exists in various forms but basically it is the story of
two brothers riding away to the wars, of the elder being captured
and held for ransom and the younger brother being sent home to
raise the price of freedom. Once home he decides to do nothing
and to assume his brothers place. The latter however, is freed
through the love of his captors daughter, and returns to blow
the horn that hangs by the castle gate and which only the true
heir can blow.In 1806 William Wordsworth wrote a poem called "The
Horn of Egremont Castle" in which he tells a variant of the
tale. Sir Eustace Lucy and his brother
Hubert set off on one of the Crusades and as true knights they
showed their mettle:
Side by side they fought (the Lucies
Were a line for valour famed)
And where'er their strokes alighted
There the Saracens were tamed
But Hubert becomes envious and arranges to have his brother
bushwhacked:
"Sir" the Ruffians said to Hubert
Deep he lies in Jordans flood"
And with this assurance Hubert rides home. But Sir Eustace is not quite as dead as reported and years later rides home to sound the Horn and claim his own. Hubert begs forgiveness and enters a monastery.Curiously enough, Walter Fitzwalter, when Lord of Egremont, was taken prisoner when fighting in France and had to mortgage the Castle to raise his ransom.A modern version of "The Horn of Egermont" appears in Harold Morland's LAKELAND BALLADS (Lakeland Printers Ltd. 1972).
Armoured knights and men-at-arms no longer clatter through the gateway of the
keep, but the peaceful ruins are well worth a visit for the view they demand
People have heard of the egremont legacies, whether they are on flights to india r flights to germany. They give them up in favour of flights to london immediately. History lovers do not bother themselves with the worries of cheap flights.
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